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The
Karakoram Highway or KKH in short, is the greatest wonder of modern
Pakistan. It is one of the most spectacular roads in the world
connecting Pakistan to China. It twists through three great mountain
ranges - the Himalayas, Karakoram and Pamir -following one of the
ancient silk routes along the valleys of the Indus, Gilgit and Hunza
rivers to the Chinese border at the Khunjerab Pass. It then crosses
the high Central Asian plateau before winding down through the
Pamirs to Kashgar, at the Western edge of the Taklamakan Desert. By
this route, Chinese silks, ceramics, lacquer-work, bronze, iron, fur
and spices traveled west, while the wool, linen, ivory, gold,
silver, precious and semi-precious stones, asbestos and glass of
South Asia And the West traveled east.
For much
of its 1,284 kms (905 miles) the Karakoram Highway is overshadowed
by towering barren mountains and a high altitude desert enjoying
less than 100 millimeters (four inches) of rain a year. In many of
the gorges through which it passes, it rides a shelf cut into a
sheer cliff face as high as 500 meters (1,600 feet) above the river.
The
KKH has opened up Remote villages where little has changed in
hundreds of years, where farmers irrigate tiny terraces to grow
small patches of wheat, barley or maize that stand out like emeralds
against the Grey, stony mountains. The highway is an incredible feat
of Engineering and enduring monuments to the 810 Pakistanis and 82
Chinese who died forcing it through what is probably the world's
most difficult and unstable terrain. (The unofficial death toll is
somewhat higher, coming to nearly one life for each kilometer of the
road). The Karakoram and the Himalayas, the newest mountain ranges
in the world, began to form some 5 million years ago when the Indian
sub-continent drifted northwards and rammed into the Asian landmass.
By this time the dinosaurs were already extinct.
India is
still trundling northwards at the geologically reckless rate of five
centimeters (two inches) a year and the mountains are still growing
by about seven millimeters (1/4 of an inch), annually. The KKH runs
through the middle of this collision belt, where there is an earth
tremor, on average, every three minutes. Karakoram is Turkish for
'crumbling rock'; an apt description for the giant, gray,
snow-capped slagheaps that towers above the gorges which cut between
them.
Three miles North of Hassan Abdal you enter the
Hazara region of the North-West Frontier Province and continue past
the bustling town of Haripur to Havelian, the railhead and official
beginning of the Karakorum Highway.
Next is the large town of Abbottabad, where a road branches east to
the hill town of Murree and its neighbours, the Galis. At Thakot
(2,515 feet in elevation and 123 miles from Rawalpindi)the KKH
leaves Hazara and enters Swat District, crossing to the right bank
of the Indus over the first of the more than ninety graceful
suspension bridges built by engineers that lie between here and the
northern border. The Indus River flows northwest, dividing the
Himalayas from the Karakoram before being knocked south, by the
Hindukush. The KKH hugs the banks of the Indus for 310 kilometers of
its climb north, winding around the foot of Nanga Parbat, the ninth
highest mountain in the world and the western anchor of the
Himalayas.
As you proceed north on the KKH, you enter the
region called 'Kohistan', "Land of Mountains". This area
was formerly known as 'Yagistan', "Land of the
Ungovernable," or "The Rebellious Country." Along the
KKH east of Buner, the small Gor Valley drains into the far side of
the Indus from the North. At Raikot Village, the raikot valley joins
the Indus. Just upriver from Raikot, the KKH crosses to the north
(right) bank of the Indus. Not far north of Jaglot the Gilgit river
joins the Indus from the west. The
highway then leaves the Indus for Gilgit, Hunza and Khunjerab rivers
to take on the Karakoram Range, which boat 12 of the 30 highest
mountains in the world. By this time the road reaches to 4,733 metre
(15,528-feet). Here, the KKH follows first the Gilgit river, then
the Hunza valley to the road's terminus on the border with Sinkiang,
China at the Khunjerab Pass. The Khunjerab Pass has earned the name
of the highest metalled border-crossing in the world. The KKH
continues almost due west along the Gilgit River valley, crossing
dry alluvial fans, and in a dozen miles passes south of the Bagrot
valley, a tributory nala with a road that leads directly north to
the southern base of Rakaposhi, the 25,550-foot peak. Soon you see a
long suspension bridge over the Gilgit river that leads to the town
of Dainyor. The KKH crosses that bridge, carrying on into the gorge
of the hunza river. The remainder of the road follows the hunza
valley. The KKH is indeed a wonder of its own and a must see for all
tourists visiting Pakistan. |