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The
Khunjerab Pass, at 4,733 meters (15,528 feet), is reputedly the
highest metalled, border-crossing in the world. Visitors are greeted
with a red sign announcing 'China, drive right', and another green
sign saying 'Pakistan, drive left'. A monument declares that the
highway was opened in 1982 and indulges in a bit of hyperbole by
saying that the pass, is at 16,000 feet (4,875 meters). On May 1,
1986, the Khunjerab was opened to foreigners for travel between
Hunza and Kashgar in Sinkiang Province. Since then, Sost has been
the customs, health and immigration checkpoint on the Pakistan side
and the place where people depart for or arrive from China, even
though it is 54 miles from the pass.
The Khunjerab is on a continental watershed. All
water on the Pakistani side flows down to the Indian Ocean, while
that on the Chinese side is swallowed by the Taklamakan Desert, the
name of which means, that, if you go in, you don't come out'. It is
32 kilometers (20 miles) from the top of the pass to the abandoned
Chinese border post at Pirali.
The
scenery is remarkably different on both sides of the pass. The
Pakistani side depicts a vertical world of desert-gorges devoid of
any sign of human life for about 30 kilometers (19 miles), except
for the road itself. The Chinese side is a wide- open, grassy
high-altitude plateau with grazing herds of yaks, sheep and goats
tended by Tajik herders. Children and dogs, romp among round felt
tents called Yurts. The Tajiks are a smiling and friendly lot, and
the women are as happy to be photographed as the men. Camels, on
this side of the border appear to be altogether different. This
journey promises adventure and thrills for all enthusiasts.
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