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The traditional route to the peak passes through
Chitral - Reshun - Kuragh - Khosht - Drassan - Zani pass - Shagram
and Shaikh Naik. After a two-hour jeep drive on Chitral-Mastuj road
one has to take a direct route from Perpish to Barum village and
then through the glacier of the same name (Barum) to the peak. This
route is, however, recommended for those who have already
acclimatized themselves with high-altitude-climbing; otherwise there
is a great danger of high altitude sickness.
Tirich
Mir like Rakaposhi and Nanga Parbat to the east, is known for being
the home of 'Peris' called "fairies" in english. The Tirich valley
parallels the Turikho Valley and is separated from it by a 15
mile-long flat-topped ridge which averages about 12,500 feet in
elevation. The ideal way to reach this ridge, for its unsurpassed
views of the high peaks in the Hindu Kush, is to climb Zani An
(12,500). Zani An is situated between Shagram and a mile higher than
Drasan, thus it is most easily approached from the Tirich valley,
because the climb is 2,000 feet less from this side.The ridgetop in
both directions from the pass is quite level, inviting you to stroll
along it and view the spectacular Hindu Kush peaks from Tirich Mir
to Saraghrar and north.
Tirich Main peak (7,708m/25,288ft) was climbed for
the first time in 1950 by a Norwegian expedition which was lead by
Arne Naess. The other members of the expedition included P. Kvern
berg and H. Berg. The expedition was also accompanied by Professor
Hameed Beg of the Karakoram Club (Pakistan) who reached an altitude
of over 6,096m/20,000ft quite a feat in those times. Captain Tony
Streather of Chitral Scouts tagged alongwith the expedition from
Drosh and eventually climbed Tirich Mir.
The first major attempt by Pakistanis was the
Karakoram Club's expedition to Tirich Mir in 1951. The expedition
was led by Mian Abdul Rauf and consisted of Daud Beg, Arshad Munir
and Captain Shaukat Malik. It set up three advance camps and reached
6,553m/21,500ft before abandoning the attempt due to shortage of
supplies.
It
was in 1982 that a German by the name of Fritz Stammberger tried to
climb, all alone, a subsidiary peak of Tirich Mir (7,701
m/25,267ft). He could go up to (6,096/20,000ft) when he was hit by
an avalanche and sustained minor head and face injuries. Upon
returning to base camp he met an American expedition of Knauth,
Peter Newell and Dr. Bill Bartlett from whom he received medical
treatment. Tirich Mir (E):- It has a height of 7,692m/25,236ft and
was climbed in 1964 by a Norwegian expedition which was again led by
Arne Naess, who had headed the successful 1950 Tirich Mir (Main)
expedition. Two members, R. Hoibakk and A. Opdal, reached top of
Tirich Mir (E). Tirich Mir (West II):- It is about 7,500m/24,607ft
high, and was climbed in 1974 by Beppe Re and Guido Machetto of an
Italian expedition. After establishing base camp, the party set up
two additional camps. In order to acclimatize itself with high
altitude climbing, the party also climbed an already-climbed Dirgol
Zom peak.
Tirich Mir (West I): Its height is 7,487m/24,563ft.
The peak was climbed in 1967 by a Czechoslovak expedition led by
Vladimir Sed ivy. It is, however, doubtful whether this was the
first ever climb on the peak by this party. The party is stated to
have climbed it by the north-west col. J. Cervinka, I. Galfy, V.
Smida and I. Urbanovic reached the top. In addition to the above
climb, the party made quite a few climbs on other mountains. Some of
them were the first-ever climbs.
The fifth highest peak in the Tirich Mir range is
Tirich Mir (West Ill) which is 7,400m/24,278ft high. It was climbed
in 1974 by Groupe Universitaire de Montagne et de Ski of France and
was led by Guy Lucazeau and Bernard Amy. The sixth peak of the
Tirich Mir range is Tirich Mir (West IV) - 7,338m/24,075ft. It was
climbed in 1967 by Kurt Diemberger and Dietmar Proske through the
very difficult north face. Diemberger also made the first circle
around the Tirich Mirs. The purpose was to carry-out geological
survey of the area. His route passed through Shagram (above Zani
pass) Atak Banduk - Shaikh Naik - Tirich glacier - Ano glacier -
Lower Gazikistan glacier - Arkari valley - Owir pass - Barum
-Lethzom - Atak and back to Shagram.
Another interesting peak in the Tirich Mir range is
un-named with a height of 7,100m/23,294ft. This peak is situated to
the south of Tirich Mir (Main) peak. It is therefore better to call
it Tirich Mir (South). Yet another interesting peak of the range is
northern spur of Tirich Mir which is stated to be 7,056m/23,149ft
high. It was climbed in 1965 by Kurt Diemberger, Herwig Handler and
Fritz Lindner of a German - Austrian expedition.
Tirich Mir (Little) (6,550m/21 ,489ft) can be
considered as the last peak in the Tirich Mir range. The peak was
attempted by Pak-Karakoram Club expedition in 1951 but was
eventually climbed in 1969 by the British-Pak Army Mountaineering
expedition which was led by Maj. J. W. Fleming of the British Army.
Captain Mumtaz Khan and Lieutenant Azhar Hussain represented the
Pakistan Army. The party approached the peak from Chitral via Shogor,
Beshgram, Susum, Lasht and Owir pass, Awi and South Barum
glacier. Captain M.W.H. Day, Captain R.A. Summerton and Corporal J.
Anderson were able to climb the peak. The party indicates its height
as 6,361m/20,869ft. Tirich Mir still holds its attraction and lure
for enthusiastic climbers. |