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The ruins of an ancient Buddhist monastery are
situated on the top of a 152-meter (500 feet) high hill. It is
located about 80 kms from Peshawar and 16 kms northwest of the city
of Mardan. The
monastry of Takht-i-Bahi was first mentioned by General Court, the
French officer of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1836. Takht-i-Bahi is the
most impressive and complete Buddhist monastery in Pakistan. From
the top of the hill behind monastery one can look down across the
plains as far as Peshawar on one side and up to the Malakand Pass
and the hills of Swat on the other. This site has produced
fragmentary sculptures in stone and stucco that indicate the highly
developed sculptural sense of their creators. But the most
remarkable feature is the design and arrangement of the range of
small shrines, which surrounds the main stupa-court. This site,
dating back to 2nd-3rd century A.D., consists of a large rectangular
court, on the north of which is the main monastery and to the south
is a well-planned monastic shrine of high terrace.
The Vinaya text throws light on the architecture of
the monastery. The village is built on the ruins of the ancient
town, the foundation walls of which are still in a tolerably good
formation. As
a proof, that it was in the past occupied by the Buddhists and Hindu
races, coins of those periods are still found at the site. the monks
constructed it for their convenience. Spring water was supplied to
them on hill tops; living quarters for ventilators for light and
alcoves for oil lamps were made in the walls. From the description
of Song Yun, a Chinese pilgrim, it appears that it was on one of the
four great cities lying along the important commercial route to
India. It was a well-fortified town with four gates outside the
northern one, on the mound known as Chajaka Dehri which was a
magnificent temple containing beautiful stone images covered in gold
leaves. Not far from the rocky defile of Khaperdra did Ashoka build
the eastern gate of the town outside of which existed a stupa and a
sangharama.
The group of buildings unearthed after
archeological excavations at Takht-i-Bahi may include; the court of
many Stupas, the monastery, the main stupa, the assembly hall, the
low-level chambers, the courtyard, the court of three stupas, the
wall of colossi and the secular building. In
1871, Sergeant Wilcher found innumerable sculptures at Takht-i-Bahi.
Some depicted stories from the life of Buddha, while others more
devotional in nature included the Buddha and Bodhisattava. The Court
of Stupas is sorrounded on three sides by open alcoves or chapels.
The excavators were of the view that originally they contained
single plaster statues of Buddha either sitting or standing,
dedicated in memory of holy men or donated by rich pilgrims. The
monastery on the north, was probably a double storied structure
consisting of an open court, ringged with cells, kitchens and a
refactory.
A visit to Takht-i-Bahi is an informative
experience particularly to those interested in archaeological
excavations. Walking further, you will come accross the monestary
court which was a residential area and as such a small number of
sculptures were recovered. However, a beautiful emaciated Siddhartha
in three parts was discovered. Likewise the other courts with
Buddha's images in stucco are equally interesting and they were used
either for meditation, meetings or storage. A truly majestic place!
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